Courtney GI kicked off my first trip of 2023 by going on a cruise to Mexico that left out of New Orleans.
As an overthinker, I tend have a lot of details. For those who like to skip ahead I’ll make a table of contents. If you want to know the planning that went behind this trip, check back on Wednesday!
Time at the Louis Armstrong International Airport
Arriving at the Hotel
Exploring New Orleans
Ghost and Vampire Walking Tour
Let’s get into the first day in New Orleans!
Before Takeoff
When the faithful day finally arrived, I flew out of Hartsfield-Jackson – the supposed busiest airport in the world – pretty early. I am someone who gets to the airport two hours before the flight. Well, I should’ve gotten there even earlier that day. The wait in security alone was over an hour, the longest I’ve ever had to wait in line. It first started at the south terminal checkpoint wrapping around the food court area. There were about six lines spawning out from the typical security entry. When I could actually see the TSA agent stations, they moved my line to the north terminal checkpoint. Other passengers who’d just finished checking their bags or getting dropped off came around and tried to cut us as we were being led to the other checkpoint but the other TSA agents guiding quickly shut that down, telling them they had to go to the back.
I brought a carry-on (or at least I thought it was) so I didn’t have to wait in the line to check my bag. If I had I would’ve barely made it to my gate in time. This was really making me consider getting TSA pre-check.
When I did finally make it to my gate – which was all the way at the end of the concourse – I ended up having to check my bag anyway because it would’ve been too big for the overhead bins. I would rather have kept my bag with me the whole time, especially with news reports talking about luggage getting stolen. However, since I didn’t have to pay to check it, I was fine.
The pilot advised there would be some turbulence during the flight before we took off. After this announcement, a passenger had her head down to her knees and while I couldn’t hear clearly because I had music playing in my earbuds, I could tell she was taking labored breaths by the way shoulders heaved up and down. Her partner was talking to her and then waved a flight attendant over. As the three discussed, I could tell the woman was trying to force herself to make it through the flight before we took off but shortly after the flight attendant left, the woman talked to her partner and asked to be escorted off the plane. Her partner followed soon after. I wished I could’ve helped calm her nerves in some way.
Once in the air, I don’t remember it being that bad. We didn’t get any refreshments out of safety for the flight attendants so I took that time to sleep. There were screens to watch a show, movie, or play a game but I forgot I didn’t have wired earphones. They did offer some but ultimately I knew I was going to sleep most of the time. The flight was short but long enough for me to catch some extra sleep.
Time at the Louis Armstrong International Airport
When I landed at the Louis Armstrong International Airport, I found that it was pretty is easy to navigate. Looking at the map ahead of time may have helped (one of my tips for first time airport travelers).
I was originally planning on waiting for my friend Cali at her gate since she was coming in two hours after to me. Because I had to check my bag, I couldn’t risk it getting stolen at baggage claim (yes, I know I’m a little paranoid). Trust me, I did ask if it was possible to have the bag be brought to the gate through the gangway but the gate agent told me it’d go straight to baggage claim.
Before I hurried over to avoid theft, I walked to the Café Du Monde which is located in the food court in between the concourses of the airport. I figured I’d get it as a breakfast to snack on while I waited for Cali.
I ate my beignets after I got my bag. Powdered sugar was all over my pants and suitcase. This is where I regretted not getting napkins before rushing off. It was pretty messy but so good. Beignets are essentially square doughnuts but they’re delicious square doughnuts; perfectly pillow-y, warm and topped with powdered sugar for that sweetness.
After I found a spot to sit for the next two hours, I checked in with my family. It was my little sister’s birthday so I called her first. My other sister texted me to wish me a safe trip and send some money for my birthday (it was three days from then but she was sending money ahead of time). Then I checked in with my Dad and then my Mom. It helped the time go by but I still felt the minutes dragging on. Cali actually showed about 30 minutes early so I talked with my Mom all the way up until we reunited.
We squealed when we saw each other like all friends do when they haven’t seen each other in a while. The last time we saw each other was back in September when I went to Chicago so we could go to a concert together.
Once she got her bag we decided to get an Uber which was $40.99 (before tip). I had a plan to take the E1 bus and transfer to a street car because it was cheaper. However, it would’ve taken an hour to get there (and I didn’t want to have to lug my luggage around). The Uber took a little less than 30 minutes to get to the Doubletree on Canal Street from the airport and we marveled at the architecture of the buildings as we drove past.
To quote my friend, “It looks so much like New Orleans.” I couldn’t help but burst out laughing but I got what she meant. The iron balconies, the European style buildings amongst a few skyscrapers made it feel like we were in the New Orleans from the movies, that it wasn’t all Hollywood magic.
Arriving at the Hotel
Now, here’s where I needed to practice being stealthy. The hotel was in my friend Celeste’s name whose flight wouldn’t land until later that afternoon. That was fine but she only had two people for the reservation. For a head count, there were three of us. The plan was I’d go up to try and check-in and if not I’d just take Cali’s and my bags to the bag-check. I tried to check-in showing the reservation information but was advised my name had to be on the reservation as well.
I called Celeste to ask if she could try to add it in between flights and in the meantime I checked mine and Cali’s bags at the hotel bag-check. Jake was very friendly each time I had to stop by to either grab something from a bag or add my book bag to the pile.
The whole of the Doubletree staff was nice for the most part.
Exploring New Orleans
After we’d gotten everything together with our bags, we set out to the first stop on my New Orleans itinerary. I made an itinerary of what I wanted to do beforehand and the first thing was visiting No Pulp Records. No Pulp Records is a black-owned record store. I couldn’t wait to visit after finding them on Instagram. The record store is located on the third floor of the Beckman’s Bookshop, a quiet used bookstore.
The owner wasn’t in the day we went but we met Kate who had a great vibe. I started collecting records in 2021 and I’d always wanted to ask someone on staff at a record store if they had a recommendation. I like listening to new music and am opened to anything so I decided to ask Kate. She gave great recommendations like Unknown Mortal Orchestra, Nick Hakim, Vicky Farewell, and Toro Y Moi. I was originally going to buy Solange’s “A Seat at the Table” but I put it back and bought two of the recommendations instead.
I shipped them back home (well, to my mom’s house since I wouldn’t be home before they arrived) because I didn’t want to carry them during the cruise. If you stop by and decide to ship yours also, it’s $6 for up to 4 records.
Afterwards, Kate let Cali and I see the fourth floor where the owner hosts musical guests and parties which displayed some pretty cool art installations too.
It was really nice chatting with Kate and honestly, set such a good vibe for the day. No Pulp Records was such a delight! I even got a free pin! Before we left Cali asked if there were any good tattoo places nearby. It was Friday the 13th and she always got a tattoo on Friday the 13th. She had been a little bummed about not being able to do it during the trip but I suggested she try and get one that day if she really wanted one.
We went back to the hotel first to figure out what we wanted to do next but Cali gave in and decided she did want a tattoo. We went to one place first but they didn’t have any flashes for the day and overall the guy there had really negative energy. We went to Hell or High Water Tattoo next (which we’re pretty sure is what Kate recommended but we couldn’t remember). They had the flashes but they had such a long line. We decided to wait in it because I had free time and then the French Market on my itinerary so it didn’t interfere with anything. However, the wait was getting longer. While we waited Celeste was able to add me on to the reservation so I walked back to the hotel to check-in and move our bags into our room.
While my friend waited in line to get her tattoo, I ran to get us some lunch at Johnny’s Po’boys. The original lunch spot was going to be the Gazebo Café in the French Market but Johnny’s was closer. I got there right before the line got long.
Johnny’s Po’boys is cash only. A shrimp po’boy is around $15 and a drink is $3; with tax, it was $21+. The po’boy is big enough for two people to share, so I just got one without tomato since Cali and I both preferred no tomato. I ate my half of the po’boy at the hotel because by the time I had it, Cali was getting her tattoo and friends weren’t allowed in the booth. I was tired of running around anyway. The po’boy was good but I should’ve put hot sauce on it to give it some zing; they had some at their tables but I didn’t want to unwrap the sandwich. Cali also thought it could’ve had more flavor once she had her half.
Once Cali’s tattoo was finished I brought her up to the room and we gushed over her New Orleans themed Friday the 13th tattoo. We were tired so we stayed in the room while she finished her half of the po’boy and ended up not going to the French Market.
Vue Orleans
What was next on my itinerary after the French Market was Vue Orleans which I already bought a ticket for ($27 with tax online) so I couldn’t skip it. We tried waiting for Celeste to see if she could get to the hotel in time but she said she wouldn’t get there until 30 minutes after my ticket time so we went on.
Normally, Vue Orleans sells their last ticket at 5pm. I had bought my ticket ahead of time for 4pm. It was the latest time available but I didn’t think anything of it. However, when we got there at 4:05, they told me it was too late for Cali to buy a ticket because they stopped selling at 4pm for a private event they were having at 5pm.
So, I went through Vue Orleans by myself. I felt like I was rushing myself because I wanted to make sure I was out before the private event started and I felt bad that my friends couldn’t come with me.
They had awesome interactive exhibits throughout the entire thing, one for historical figures of New Orleans, one for the New Orleans culinary dishes, one for Mardi Gras fashions, and one for the history of music throughout New Orleans all on the first floor. I missed out on the short film. The person working there told me I could go up to the observation deck and catch it on the way back but I never did since it wasn’t opened.
On the elevator up (and down) it shows a video on all four walls of the elevator about different aspects of the city like, jazz, the cemeteries, the Mississippi River, and so on which was pretty cool.
Going up to the observation deck led to more interactive activities. You could look through maps and click on different regions in New Orleans to learn more about it or different activities and attractions in those regions. There was also a cargo boat steering game you could play.
Going up one more floor, there was the café, to try some of the culinary dishes you learned about the first floor and the outdoor observation area. It was very cold and windy so I didn’t stay up there long.
Vue Orleans recommends about 1.5 hours there and I think I went through it in about 45 minutes. When I go back to New Orleans, I’ll definitely go there again to catch the short film I missed and look at the other facts and videos that I skipped over when I was rushing. It’s definitely a place to visit if you’re only in New Orleans for a short time.
Dinner Time
I met Cali back at the hotel. Well, really we met in the middle of the street both on our way back to the hotel. She had stopped by the outdoor shopping mall that was near us. Vue Orleans is also next to an outlet mall but she went to other mall in the area.
Not too long after we got back to the hotel, Celeste arrived. I rushed down to meet her and let her in the room. She’d ended up taking a taxi because it was cheaper than Uber (most likely due to surge prices).
We helped her get settled and then walked to Mambo’s for dinner which was what was next on my itinerary. I tried making a reservation ahead of time but it doesn’t look like they except reservations on Fridays and weekends.
However, we didn’t really need one. Mambo’s had no wait at all on a Friday night at 6pm but they were pretty full.
We were seated on the second floor and it had a good amount of people but it wasn’t packed. I was tempted to try a cocktail with my friends but I decided to just get a soda for the night. I’m not a big drinker anyway.
I tried gator bites for the first time. Half were blackened the other half were fried but I think I liked the fried ones more. It’s strange because the blackened one’s tasted like a little more like fish while the fried ones reminded me of chicken nuggets. The remoulade sauce was really good. The best I can described it is like a tangy, zesty, honey mustard with a kick.
I also ordered the Mambo’s Famous Oysters but I’ll be honest, I wasn’t impressed. Weirdly, it reminded me of nachos when I ate it with the sauce it came with but the sauce wasn’t cheesy. I think I would’ve liked the Rockefeller oysters better with the spinach and bacon. Both items I ordered were $14 a piece with the soda being around $3. Cocktails were $13.
I tried a little of my friend’s crawfish poutine and the savory sauce over the fries with the crawfish, might’ve been my favorite bite of the night. They do have a vegetarian menu for those who are looking for vegetarian options.
Because we were on the second floor, they let us go out on the balcony for pictures and people watching. They have a third floor which leads to their rooftop bar but I didn’t get a chance to see it. I think that’s their more popular area; perfect for sunset watching with a view of the Quarter and drink in your hand.
Ghost and Vampire Walking Tour
After dinner, we went on a French Quarter Phantoms walking tour for the Ghost and Vampire tour. We had Katherine as our tour guide who was extremely sweet and knowledgeable about the city even outside the tour.
Where you meet for the beginning of the tour – The Voodoo Lounge – is across from the Louis Armstrong Park (there was a big lit up sign that I couldn’t get a clear picture of because of the trees). Originally, because of the trees, I didn’t know what the huge lit arch said so we asked Katherine.
She explained that the park was actually the Congo Square which was a part of the Tremé neighborhood and it was where freed and enslaved people of color would go to play music and dance together (once a week I think she said). Tremé was built and bought by the freed people of color and if they were able to, they’d tried to buy their family members out of slavery as well. I learned a little bit of this at Vue Orleans and hearing more was great.
As I said earlier, it was Friday the 13th so of course there was a lot of tour groups for this type of tour out that night.
We walked maybe a mile or so around the French Quarter as she showed us the different mansions, older buildings and a building still owned by the Vatican for sightings of apparitions and supernatural vampire-like people and the history behind it all. There was so much that you’ll have to take the tour yourself to get the details. The last stop was intense. This was definitely more of a history tour than a spooky tour which I really appreciated. We briefly stopped across from Fritzel’s Jazz Pub and Katherine told us there was a speakeasy. I’ll get more into that on our second full day in New Orleans.
One thing to note if you take this tour, at the end of the tour you will not be taken back to where you started so have your Google maps ready or try to ask your tour guide the best way to get back to your hotel or wherever you want to go. It took us about 20 minutes walking through Bourbon Street to get to Walgreens and then another 5-10 minutes back to the hotel. While locals, tourists, and those in between crowd Bourbon Street, there are still cars driving through the cross streets. When you visit, be careful while walking.
When we got back to the hotel we all pretty much crashed because it had been a long, cold day, and a long, freezing walking tour. Sorry, my friends and I aren’t the “party on Bourbon Street” type.
The Morning After
The next morning we woke up to got to Ruby Slipper Café for breakfast. There were two walking distances from us (one that was close to the record store) so we just walked to the closest one on Magazine Street. I had joined the waitlist so we didn’t have to wait to be seated. I was surprised how busy it already was when we got there considering they had only opened about 30 minutes prior.
I’m not going to lie, this was probably the best meal I had in New Orleans overall (for all days I was in New Orleans). Celeste and I ordered a Ruby Mimosa ($10+) to drink which is a regular mimosa of champagne, orange juice, and a splash of pomegranate juice. Cali ordered their Rainbow Flight ($20+) which was an assortment of five different mimosas.
For the main meal I ordered Shrimp and Grits ($15+) which also had pork tasso and a huge buttermilk biscuit which were all delicious. We split an order of seasonal beignets ($7+) which that morning was cannoli-esque beignets. They were so good we almost ordered another round of them.
After breakfast we went back to the hotel, made sure we had everything ready and packed. I had to remind my friends to print out their luggage tags for the cruise line so we used the hotel’s printer. We went back out to try and find some coffee for Cali, and checked out of the hotel ready for the main event: the cruise!
I’ll get more into embarkation in the next post but until then, what’s something you’d always wanted to do in New Orleans? Put it the comments below!
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